About The Year I Touched My Toes

Waiting for the next long walk ...

Day 6 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Mongla to Dole

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Notes and Photos to Remind Us of the Journey

My notebook diary entry from my third trek

Sunday 30 September . 3975 – 4200 metres

Left late (stomach) 9:40 – arrived 2:10 pm. Walked down to Phortse Tenga (3808 metres).Had a lodge break and then UP to Dole. Good track, stairs and then flat.

Staying at Namaste Lodge (second lodge at the start of the village). Six lodges in total. New toilet. European toilet.

Lots of rhododendrons and shiny bronze barked trees and thorn bush, small rose hips.

Noticeable increase in prices.

Map the EBC trek and the Three passes of the Khumbu region Nepal
Map of the EBC trek and the Three passes
Track between Phortse Tenga and Dole
The pretty but continuous walk UP from Phortse Tenga to Dole

I have made some notes each day on all of our Nepalese treks. That way you won’t forget what the photos don’t tell you. My first note mentions a problematic stomach the morning we left Monjo. We were trekking independently meant we could leave when we wanted to, also taking into account the advice of the porter guide. Although it is best to leave your lodge early to get whatever sun there is later in the day before it disappears behind large mountains it doesn’t mean you have to leave when its still dark.

Unfortunately when we left Australia for the trek I was sick with a cough. So the steep climb up from Phortse Tenga down level with the river up to a height above Dole and down again took a lot of effort and a lot of coughing. I had to stop a lot to catch my breath and was exhausted when I arrived. Our porter knew one the people running one of the lodges so we stayed there on his recommendation.

Dole on the way to Gokyo in the Khumbu
The small village of Dole

Day 5 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Khumjung to Mongla

Sometimes First Impressions of a Place Are Not the Best

Mongla stupa September 2018
The small settlement of Mongla with its newly painted stupa.

The Sherpa woman was squatting on the side of the trail on the path looking over the edge of the hill. Yelling. She wasn’t hysterical but she was very animated. Nepalese people are very calm and yelling just doesn’t fit with their character. They are very accepting and you don’t see them getting angry. As we got closer I could see she was yelling into her mobile phone. Bad reception perhaps? Finally we were close enough to see the problem. The woman was yelling at two teenage girls way down on the slope, maybe one of the girls was on the other end of the phone, although she could probably have her heard without the phone. She was directing them to round up a yak who was eating in a cultivated area where it obviously should not have been. The young girls where having some difficulty catching the yak because of the slope. It was quite funny but then again it wasn’t.

Mongla the Second Time Around

We were almost into the very small village when we witnessed the escaped yak scene and the scene is seared into my memory.

Mongla on the hill September 2018
the view of the small village of Mongla from the Khumjung side
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Day 4 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Namche Bazaar to Khumjung

An Extra Acclimatisation Night in Khumjung Rewards You with More Than Views.

Khumjung with a view to Khongde

At Namche Bazaar A Third Night Spent At Around 3790 Metres Helps Acclimatisation

For our second trek to Everest Base Camp and third trek to Gokyo and over Cho La Pass we stayed in Khumjung (3790 metres) in addition to the two nights spent in Namche Bazaar (3440 metres or 11,286 feet at its low point). We believe a third night at that similar altitude has helped with our altitude acclimatisation on two of our three treks. And. You will help get to EBC feeling great. Technically on this trip we were going to Gokyo Ri but we are talking altitude which is much the same.

Although our three treks to the Khumbu region have been “independently”. The first time totally without a porter/ guide, which we wouldn’t do again. It is better to have some form of local support and it enriches your trip having someone local with you. The second and third treks we took a porter/ guide, making it just the three of us, there are a few trekking companies that do a similar itinerary around this altitude, that is an extra day in Khumjung – but you have to search for them.

Chance encounter in Khumjung
By chance we bumped into our porter guide from our 2015 trek (left) with our porter guide 2018 trek.
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Day 3 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Acclimatisation Day in Namche

Things to Do the Day After the Big Climb to Namche Bazaar

Just after leaving our lodge in the middle of Namche we came upon this building which was like a boarding school. At least that is how we interpreted what our porter guide told us. I just love all the little shoes. And everything as neat as a pin.

We walked to the top of the Museum and Visitors Information Centre. My favourite part was the traditional house.

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Follow the Instructions

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Mani along the Everest Base Camp trail

Day 2 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Monjo to Namche Bazaar – a Short Walk

Mental Preparation and Climbing Slowly to Namche Bazaar is Key to a Successful EBC Trek

People planning to trek to Everest Base Camp read about the steep 600 metre climb to Namche Bazaar after crossing the high bridge over the Dudh Kosi river and gorge.

why you need to climb to Namche bazaar slowly

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Day 1 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – Lukla to Monjo

Plan a Flexible Itinerary for Your Trek In Nepal

Starting Out On A Trek

Trekking Poles – Don’t Leave Home Without Them

I’m a fan of trekking poles. A friend walked part of the Camino thoughts on trekking poles I must admit they do help but it does look like you have an affectation.The Trainer (my husband) put it more succinctly. You look like a wanker. I replied. Lots of wankers on this trail then. And took off down the trail. With my trekking poles.

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Day 11 to Gokyo and Cho La Pass – The Pass

Confessions of a Scaredy Cat on Top of Cho La Pass

On top of Chol La Pass with the Porter Guide, Nepal

Is crossing Cho La Pass dangerous ? You bet it is.That’s me with the worried look on my face on top of Cho La Pass (5368metres / 17,611 feet). I’d made it to the top with a lot of help from our porter guide, I was still anxious. And scared. All I wanted was to get off the top and safely to our lodge in Dzongla for the night before weather set in. I could include a bucket load of expletives here but I haven’t, I’ll just let you imagine them. Lots of them.

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Day 9 to Goyko and Cho La Pass – Gokyo Ri

To Climb Gokyo Ri or Not To Climb ? Decisions in The Khumbu Nepal

Ngozumba Glacier Above Goyko Gokyo Lake and the town og Gokyo

You can plan and prepare for a trek, but you can’t control fate. I had caught a cold just before leaving Melbourne for Nepal and for eight days I had coughed my way through the Khumbu. Now more than three quarters of the way up to Gokyo Ri I was exhausted.

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Thank You For Everest

To My Valentine Trainer

We met in Egypt. And had four days together. He made me laugh, something clicked and there was that spark. We talked about me visiting him in Milan but as a teacher it had to be the school holidays and it seemed way too long off. We exchanged details and said goodbye.

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The 101 on Trekking in the Everest Base Camp Region

Above Pheriche, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal
So much more than Base Camp

A Basic Overview To Everest Base Camp Trekking 

Maybe you’ve just returned from hiking to spectacular Machu Picchu and are keen to try the Everest Base Camp trek. Or you’ve been thinking about it for years but you know next to nothing about it, this post is for you.

Decide when and where you will trek twelve months in advance to give yourself plenty of time to prepare, research and train whether you are trekking with or without a tour operator. Being prepared for what the trek is like this is critical. Mental preparation is everything. Everything.

Basic Points About the EBC Region when you know absolutely nothing

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We’re Off for to Gokyo for Trek Number 3 in Nepal

We’re off to Trek in Nepal. Again.

Above Dingboche Everest Base Camp trek
Above Dingboche Everest Base Camp trek

Yes, I am in love. In love with the Nepalese landscapes and with the simplicity of the trekking in Nepal. A colleague asked me what’s the attraction with Nepal.

Why Go to Trek In Nepal?

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Nepal Captures Your Heart Forever

Himalayan Landscapes Are Forever in Your Heart

I have become addicted to wanting to walk in these landscapes. Forever.

Main Everest Base Camp Trail

That’s me on Day 13 of our Mount Everest Base Camp trek returning to Lukla. From the top of Kala Pattar we had the closest view of Everest, two weeks before I turned 58. That was October 2015. Now, we just have to go again. Back to see, and be a part, of these massive landscapes.

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Train For Hills and Steps on the EBC Trek

Steps and More Steps on the EBC Trek So Do Step Training

Namche to Tengboche

How You Should Train so that you will Enjoy doing The EBC Trek

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The EBC Trek in 20 Photos From Slate Paths to Slippery Scree Shows the Degrees of Difficulty

How Difficult is the EBC Trek ?The trail in 20 photos

It’s about what you are walking on…

EBC Trek almost to Base Camp

The last few kilometres to Base Camp on slippery scree. But let’s start at the beginning

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Acclimatisation Days Are Not Rest Days

DAY eight Dingboche acclimatisation day – My Favourite Day

I loved , loved, loved this day and Dingboche. I could go back to this part of the world every year if I could.

Ok there is a fuzzy bit in the video but – who cares….

Who is coming next time we trek here ?

Don’t forget to check out my Home Page Our Itinerary for our Everest Base Camps Treks

Yes and thank you to our Porter .. Basanta he was lovely… for always watching out for me.

Kathmandu Street Scenes

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Kathmandu Shops and Signs

Thamel in Kathmandu is a bit like the scene in Alice in Wonderland where there are signs everywhere and you still don’t know where to go.  A present for Mark from This Amazing Planet

thamel-street-2Thamel Street Kathmandu

We were told all the wires were internet cables not electricity.

 

 

Beautiful One Day Breathtaking the Next

A Photo is Worth a Thousand Superlatives

Above Pheriche, EBC Trek, Nepal

From the moment you walk out of Lukla to trek to Everest Base Camp the views are beautiful. The higher you go the more amazing the views, higher again the views become breathtaking panoramas. Looking through the hundreds of photos taken by The Trainer and our two treks through the Khumbu, the beauty is commonplace and you gravitate to the most spectacular photos. It is easy for a good photo to go unnoticed. Like this one.

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Things You Should Know about Trekking to Everest Base Camp

Tents of the 2015 Ultra Marathon Runners at Everest Base Camp
Tents of the 2015 Ultra Marathon Runners at Everest Base Camp

If someone says that they are trekking to EBC it doesn’t mean they have to sleep in a tent or are intending to climb Mount Everest.

It is not normal walking and Diamox is the key to managing altitude. Make sure you have it an I would tend to follow the trekking guides’ recommendation, as in experienced guides who lead treks on a regular basis. A slow trek is key to getting there without be sick. Altitude headaches can be really horrible. I’ve heard and read. We didn’t have any.

about Kathmandu, trekking to EBC and Nepal in general.

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Step Training? Affirmative

Three Months Until Your EBC Trek? Get Training

Do I need to include steps in my training ? You bet. By the end of your training you should be able to do 1 hour of steps with a ten minute break in the middle.

Main Everest Base Camp Trail between Namche Bazaar and Tengboche treacherous steps but a great view.

There’s the man with the vision and the all the plans. Trek to Everest Base Camp, Nepal. He had been to trek the Annapurna circuit in the 80s and he knew there is a lot of uneven ground so he insisted on finding uneven hills to train on and lots of stairs too.

And stairs were in abundance …..

Between Lukla and Phakding
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